Dog Arthritis Treatment Remedies

Arthritis is a degenerative condition and, in dogs is normally age related, but not always. There are some other conditions that can cause arthritis, such as hip dysplasia, joint trauma and other joint conditions and these are not particularly limited to older dogs.

Larger and heavier dogs are affected far more than smaller lighter breeds; the heavier a dog is the more weight there is placing strain on joints and ligaments. Symptoms of degenerative arthritis include stiffness, particularly when getting up, sleeping more, struggling to stand and walk, lameness, joint pain, irritability and behavioural changes.

Diagnosis is normally by way of x-rays. Once the diagnosis has been made your vet will prescribe s course of treatment. Arthritis is not curable but prescription of some medications can dramatically improve your dog's quality of life and reduce his pain and suffering. Your vet may be able to prescribe a medication that will help the joints to repair themselves as well, preventing further damage.

It is worth noting that, whilst the medications that your vet prescribes will most certainly help him some of them are likely to cause unwanted side effects that can make your dog feel much worse and may cause other complications. Many people and vets are now looking at other ways in which to treat a dog with arthritis using more natural methods although the use of some medication will be essential.

There are other things that you can do to help your dog with his arthritis. You can put a small amount of vitamin C into his food daily, starting small and very gradually building up the amount over the course of a year. You should also give your dog certain fish oil supplements as well to help his joints to stay supple.

You can also change your dog's diet from shop bought to home cooked to ensure your dog is getting a high quality, chemical free diet. Avoid the use of tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant and peppers though as these can make your dog's arthritis much worse. However, be careful not to allow your dog to put on weight as this will deteriorate his condition quicker.

Gentle exercise is excellent therapy for arthritic dogs as it helps to keep the joints moving and helps to maintain the joints and cartilage. Be careful not to overdo it though as too much is as bad as too little.

As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure. Ensuring that your dog is regularly exercised, eats a good healthy diet and maintains a balanced weight you can minimise the chances of your dog getting arthritis. One way to keep your dog's joints supple and mobile is to use fish oil supplements. Omega 3 6 and 9 fish oils are excellent for this and given daily will certainly benefit your dog greatly.

You can purchase combination packs of products that contain these oils and one that contains the enzymes that your dog's body naturally produces. Combined and given as directed there is no reason why, although he will never be cured of arthritis, your dog can live a pain free quality life.

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Causes of Skin Allergies in Dogs

Skin problems and allergies in dogs are becoming more and more common. One in seven dogs now suffers from an allergy of some kind and the numbers are rising by the year. As a general rule of thumb, in order to suffer from an allergy, your dog must be exposed to the allergen twice. The first exposure will cause his immune system to manufacture antibodies. The second exposure causes histamine to be released causing the allergic reaction.

Whereas allergies in humans affect the upper respiratory tract, the target of an allergy in a dog is its skin. The symptoms of a skin allergy in your dog normally start with excessive scratching. Your dog will also start to lick and chew at the affected area, causing red inflamed patches, leading to hair loss, bald spots and risk of infections. Your dog may also suffer from a change in temperament, becoming snappy and unhappy.

There are four main causes of skin allergy in dogs. The first is from flea bites and other biting insects. This is the most common type o skin allergy found in dogs and is caused by a reaction to the saliva of the flea. Strangely, if a dog suffers from a flea allergy he is not likely to have many fleas on him. Excessive grooming will eliminate almost all traces of fleas. The most affected areas will be the hind quarters, rump and tail area.

The second type of skin allergy is from inhalants in the dog's environment, such as dust mites, grasses, moulds, and some tree and weed pollens. These are the second most common type of allergies and are manifested by way of very severe itching. Almost every part of the dog's body will be affected, the most acute areas being the armpits, groin, feet and flanks. Symptoms will include quite severe hair loss if not treated quickly and properly.

The third type of allergy in dogs is to food. A dog can become allergic to food at any age and testing is required to find out which food he is allergic to. The most common food allergy is beef products, although your dog can be allergic to anything. Symptoms include itchy skin, breathing difficulties and gastrointestinal problems such as vomiting and diarrhoea. Veterinary advice must be sought.

The fourth type of allergy and probably the least common is a contact allergy. This is when a dog becomes allergic to something that he has been directly in contact with. The normal suspects are wool, rubber, and certain types of metal such as chrome or nickel, fragrances such as perfumes or hairsprays and lotions that may have been applied topically to the skin. Symptoms include blistered areas, red skin, and severe itching.

All dog skin allergies are easily treatable if noticed in time and treated accordingly. You should always consult a vet for a proper diagnosis so that the correct treatment can be given. Most skin allergies can be cleared up using medication or topical sprays and, occasionally a cone will need to be worn to prevent your dog from further irritating the affected area.

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Why Is Anxiety In Dogs So Hard To Identify?

The difficulty with identifying anxiety in dogs is that it shows up in all sorts of different ways, often depending on the character of the dog as to the symptoms you will see. While anxiety can turn some dogs into painfully shy and timid creatures, others will display fear aggression, barking, snarling and lunging at anyone they feel threatened by.

With behaviour that can range from one end of the spectrum to the other, it becomes much harder to pinpoint anxiety as the cause for it and this kind of behaviour is more often labelled as a problem that needs correcting, or simply accepted as a flaw of the dog's character.

For example, how often have you heard dog owners say "my dog is aggressive" or "my dog is scared of everything"? They are accepting that it is part of the dog's character rather than thinking there is a reason for their behaviour.

It is of course true that some dogs are more shy than others and some are bolder and naturally more dominant, but the extremes on either side point to a deeper problem, but thankfully, one that can be cured!

Spotting the Signs of Anxiety

Anxiety can be present in dogs from a very early age, but it can also suddenly appear as if from nowhere. However, there is usually a trigger, which could be health related, or caused by a major change in the dog's life. Events like moving house, the arrival of a baby or the death of another dog can make a dog anxious.

Usually dogs will display more than one sign that they are feeling anxious, so watch closely for more subtle changes in their behaviour too. If you are still in doubt, consult with your vet because health and diet can be a contributing factor to this problem too.

Be aware that anxiety is not a problem that will go away on its own if you ignore it for a few months; in fact it is likely to get worse, so the sooner you take action the better.

Behaviour Problems Caused by Dog Anxiety

Somewhere in between fear aggression and extreme fearfulness there are a range of signs of anxiety that are often thought of as behaviour problems. The list below highlights the major ones and can be a useful starting point for identifying the problem in your dog.

• A dog barking, howling or whining when left alone
• A dog chewing everything they can get their teeth into such as furniture, carpets, window frame and doors whenever you leave them home alone
• Your dog urinating in the house while you're out
• Your dog pooping in the house
• Your dog following you everywhere
• Your dog whining the moment you are out of sight (even if it is only for a few minutes)
• Your dog pacing the floor, panting and salivating excessively
• Your dog chewing on their tail or paw until they are raw or sore

What to Do Next

If you think your dog is suffering from anxiety, you must take action swiftly and not allow the problem to escalate. Dog Rescue centres are full of anxious dogs whose owners have got to the point where they can no longer cope with the problem, so make sure you don't let it get to that stage. Ask your vet for advice or find a good training programme specifically designed to help anxiety in dogs.

The Author Venice Marriott is a writer, rescue dog owner and runs dog-anxiety.com a website which provides help and information for dog owners dealing with the behaviour problems created by anxiety in dogs. Click Here to watch an exclusive free video on dog anxiety from a professional dog trainer.

Good Natural Supplements for Hip Dysplasia

Hip Dysplasia is a very painful condition and a very common skeletal disease seen in dogs. The condition normally starts in young dogs with an unstable or loose hip joint. The hip joints do not develop correctly leading to deterioration and eventual loss of function. This condition can also be caused later on in life by the onset of osteoarthritis.

Gender is not normally a factor in determining whether your dog will suffer from dysplasia. However, certain breeds of dog are far more susceptible than others, particularly large or giant breeds such as the German Shepherd, Great Dane, Labrador Retriever and St Bernard. There are several causes of hip dysplasia in young dogs.

Over exercise in a young dog can lead to early wearing of the bones and joints and abnormal development. Rapid weight gain is another factor; the joints and bones can only take so much weight and pressure on them before they start to wear away and malfunction. Diet and breeding are also factors.

Some of the symptoms of hip dysplasia are a decrease in activity, a reluctance to run around, jump and climb up and down stairs, difficulty in getting up and moving around, and lameness, particularly in the hind limbs. You may also notice your dog walking with a rolling gait and his shoulders may start to become heavyset. This is because he will be transferring his weight to his shoulders, to avoid the discomfort in his hind quarters.

There are things you can do to stop or minimise the risk of you dog suffering from this very painful condition. Firstly, do not over exercise your dog, particularly in the first year or so of its life. This is when the dog's bones and joints are growing and forming and when the most damage is likely to occur.

Ensure your dog is fed on a good healthy diet. This should be a balanced diet containing at least 55% protein with the rest being made up from a combination of carbohydrates, grains and vegetables. Be aware that many of the complete dog foods available on the market today do not always contain what your dog needs in a diet and supplements may be required.

An excellent supplement to give your dog if he is suffering from dysplasia is glucosamine and chondroitin. Glucosamine is a major sugar and an essential building block for the maintenance of joints and cartilage. Chondroitin enhances these sugars and also inhibits damaging enzymes.

Vitamins C and E are vital to your dog's diet have excellent inflammatory properties, as do Omega fatty acids. These can be purchased in supplement form and given to your dog daily. Calcium is also vital to the development and maintenance of your dog's bones and joints. If enough is not present already in his diet then this needs to be given daily as well. A little milk with his food will work wonders but be careful not to give too much as it can make your dog sick.

Any of the above can be given to your dog to help prevent dysplasia as well as to treat him if he already has it. As with any medical condition, veterinary advice should be sought for correct diagnosis.

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Providing Nutrition for Your Labrador Retriever

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most popular family dogs all over the world. It's known for its gentleness, intelligence, friendliness, and versatility. It excels as a hunting companion, a guide dog for the blind, and as part of search-and-rescue teams and narcotics detection units. It comes in three colors, namely: yellow, black, and chocolate. This dog has a double coat that's naturally water-resistant and sheds regularly. If you've got a dog of this breed, you need to take care of it so it will always be in top shape for the activities it's born to do and to keep it looking good. One of the most important ways to care for your dog is to feed it properly.

Once your pet is 6 weeks old, you can already give it puppy food. Kibbles for puppies are much smaller than the ones for adult dogs. It's made for easier digestion and for mixing with hot water or milk. To wean a puppy from milk, put in some kibbles in the milk and reverse the proportion gradually until it's comfortable with eating kibbles alone. It's best to give it food three times a day.

Your puppy needs twice the protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals needed by an adult dog. This is why you need to choose kibbles particularly made for puppies and not for adults. It's also ideal that a Labrador puppy takes in up to about 25 percent of its protein requirements from meat. Check the label of the pet food before you buy it.

As soon as your pet turns 3 months, it's ideal to switch him to a twice-a-day feeding than thrice-a-day. Be careful not to overfeed your dog, which is a common mistake of owners of large breeds. Underfeeding and overfeeding both cause serious illnesses in dogs.

You should also train your dog to have a specific spot for eating its meals. Giving your dog this privacy lets it take its meals in a relaxed and healthy way. It won't also feel defensive about having to guard its meals from other people.

Aside from giving it a specific place to eat, you should also keep its meal times consistent. Don't keep its dish full all the time and just let it gobble up kibbles whenever it wants to. Disciplining your dog about feeding schedules helps keep it from being overfed and from being a picky eater.

Finally, taking care of your pet's health and nutrition doesn't only involve food. Make sure you also provide your dog with fresh water to drink all the time and maintain its regular exercise schedule.

Breeding a Rottweiler

Statistically, the average Dog breeder stays in dogs only seven years or less. Some breeders stay in it for life because it is a hobby and not a business, but it is a very serious hobby. The Germans breed with scientific methodology and look to see the positive results for 10 or 12 generations down the road. They are governed by strict breed rules and are subject to scrutiny by the German Breed warden. They breed to the Standard and are judged against that Standard. The main goals of the German breeders are Rottweilers with correct physical structure, working character, and the stamina and drive to perform the tasks for which they were bred. The challenge begins with the breeder. First and the foremost is compiling the best gene pool possible. Until your dog's role as the lowest member of the pack is established, he may believe it's his responsibility to put young children in place when they behave in a manner he thinks is out of line. And the way in which a dog punishes lower ranking pack members is by biting. The dog is not biting because he is mean or vicious - he is simply putting the lower pack member in place - just as his mother did to him when he was puppy. For this reason, it is imperative you follow this rule: Never leave an infant or child along with any dog.

Rottweilers are prone to many genetic problems, which can be passed down to their puppies. The most common of these are hip and elbow dysplasia (malformation of the joint which can be crippling), eye problems and bleeding disorders. If you plan to breed your Rottweilers, make sure they are free of hip dysplasia by sending an x-ray to the orthopedic foundation for animals. Your veterinarian will happy to give you more information on these and other procedures you should follow to ensure the good health and breed ability of your Rottie. Bad temperament is the most serious genetic fault to be passed from parent to puppy. There is never an excuse to breed a Rottweiler with a poor temperament. Training the best Rottweilers is indeed a great challenge. It seems only a few in any breed have been able to meet that challenge. Since dogs can't communicate verbally, they can't ask a stranger what their intentions are all the dogs know is that some is intruding on his territory and that he is limited by how far he can go to protect that territory. It's a scary situation for the dog and a potentially dangerous one for everyone involved - plus it can result in severe financial repercussions for you. It is imperative that you provide shade and plenty of water when your Rott is outside. Their black coats absorb the sun, and many have died because they did not have adequate protection from the heat and sun. Exercise your Rottweiler every day. This is a working breed, and he will be happiest when he has duties to perform. There are many physical activities your dog can be taught. Rottweilers often earned their keep be pulling carts and its an activity they still enjoy today.

Dog Water Safety Tips For Summer

One of the best ways to cool off on a hot summer day is to head to the nearest beach or other swimming area. Dogs need to cool off, too, so they often accompany their owners for some fun in the water. Inasmuch as going to the beach or to the lake is fun, bodies of water also present the potential for danger. For example, many dog owners take it for granted that their animals are, by nature, strong swimmers. In fact, each year thousands of dogs drown because they are not. Therefore, when around water, it is important to keep an eye on them at all times.

Just as any human can, a dog can run into problems in the water for any number of reasons. The animal might become exhausted or develop a leg cramp that would prevent its swimming back to safety. Most are lightweight enough to be easily carried unsafe distances offshore. Any number of things could go wrong, so the first rule of dog water safety is to keep a mindful eye on one's pet.

Properly training one's dog is also imperative to assure a safe water experience. One should train his or her pet to stay away from the water unless the owner is right there to supervise. Dogs can easily mistake a pool cover for a solid surface and be quickly enveloped after leaping onto one. The same is true for solar pool covers. The well-trained dog will sit and stay. It will also come when called. These three commands are some of the most crucial when dogs are around bodies of water.

A great safety aid, and one that no dog owner should be without when around water, is the life jacket. These days, most pet supply stores sell life jackets that are especially made for dogs. When choosing a life jacket for a dog, it is important to read all information carefully and to choose the one that is the right fit. The pet owner should not become overly confident just because his or her pet is wearing a life jacket, however. Even when wearing this marvelous safety device, things can go wrong.

Older dogs should be watched very carefully. Even when wearing a life jacket, an older dog might have real problems getting back to shore if the waves carry it out too far. It is easy for an older dog to fall into a rapidly moving body of water such as a river, or to be swept up in an ocean wave.

People love to gather near large bodies of water. Unfortunately, not all of them are conscientious about cleaning up after themselves before they exit. People often leave broken glass and trash scattered about the areas. Therefore, the pet owner should be cautious about his or her dog's paws and to check frequently for any cuts or embedded materials. It is a good idea to carry a dog-specific first aid kit to treat these or any other wounds that may occur when around water.

Pet owners can take it for granted that because their dogs have furry coats, they are well protected from the chill of the water and the intensity of the sun. This is a tragic misconception. In fact, hypothermia is a leading cause of dog drowning. This is especially true of both puppies and older dogs as well. The prudent dog owner will watch for signs such as dilated pupils, shivering, stupor or coma, that indicate the animal is experiencing hypothermia. Hypothermia can greatly impede a dog's ability to swim.

When swimming with the family pet, parents should advise their children that the dog is a living, breathing member of the family, and should not be used as a flotation device. A child can unwittingly hold a dog's head under the water and prevent its breathing, simply by improperly holding on to it while in the water. Dogs should be given a great deal of space while in the water. Children should avoid any activities with their pets that can cause the dogs to struggle.

All it takes is a little common sense and careful attention to keep one's dog safe in the water.

Next, find out if your dog needs a doggy life jacket and get more tips on how to keep your dog safe in and near the water at http://www.lifejacketsfordogs.info

Here Come the Ticks: Time to Buy Medication

It's April and the weather is slowly warming. In fact, it never stayed very cold for an extended period of time this winter, so you dog owners know what that means. Here come the ticks, and this year there'll be an army of them.

Tick season: that time of year when bloated little arthropod vampires get warm and hungry and feast on cattle, wildlife, humans, and DOGS. But ticks aren't just disgusting, they're also dangerous. When ticks bite wild animals such as deer or squirrels, they take in the bacteria these animals may harbor and can pass them along to their next host. Some bacteria can cause diseases in dogs (and in people) - dangerous, debilitating, and sometimes even fatal diseases such as Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.

The problem is, it isn't easy to prevent those tiny, persistent and eerily aware critters from finding your dog. Ticks can sense trace gases, such as carbon dioxide, in the air, alerting them to the presence or approach of a warm-blooded mammal. Many ticks congregate in places where mammals tend to pass, such as in the bushes and trees along the edges of hiking trails, or even in tall grass or leaf piles in your own backyard. Ticks know where your dog is going. Creepy, right?

But don't be afraid. A two-pronged approach to tick management can keep your dog (and you) safe and, if not always completely tick-free, at least protected from the dangerous diseases ticks spread. Just follow this plan: prevention and prompt removal.

Precautions begin with keeping your dog well-groomed. Regular brushing, combing and bathing keep your dog's skin and coat strong and healthy. Ticks tend to prey on weak, dirty, sick animals with broken skin. A healthy, well-groomed dog is more attractive to us but less attractive to ticks, who prefer a dirty dog with a poor immune system for a host. To keep your dog's skin (and overall health) in even better shape, make sure s/he eats a balanced and high-quality diet, especially one containing essential fatty acids (EFA's) either in his/her food or as a supplement. EFA's help strengthen and improve skin and coat quality.

I recommend using a tick control product on your dog, though some people feel the treatments (particularly the popular spot-on variety) are too strong and potentially dangerous to your dog's health. There are natural repellents and remedies, and they vary in their effectiveness. But if you take your dog into woodsy areas often, a monthly spot-on product is a great choice. Ask your veterinarian about the best and safest tick prevention products, because he or she will consider your dog's health, age, size, and also the risk of ticks where you live.

Finally, keep your yard tick free. Keep woodpiles and brush piles far from the house and out of the fenced area where your dog plays. Keep your grass mowed short and trim the longer grass that grows along fences and around garden borders. If ticks don't have good, sheltered spots to hang out and await your dog's approach, they'll go somewhere more tick-friendly.

Prompt removal is essential because the longer a tick is attached to your dog, the greater the chances that it will transmit a disease. Most tick bites don't result in disease, but the chance that they could makes it important to remove the little blood suckers without delay.

Every time you go into tall grass, shrubs, or wooded areas with your dog, do a tick check as soon as you get home. Work through your dog's coat with a fine-toothed steel fleas comb or, if your dog has a short coat, just use your hands to look and feel all over for suspicious bumps and creepy-crawlies. Look carefully in the areas ticks like to frequent, such as behind or inside ears, around the rear end under the tail, or on the chest and belly where there is less hair and the skin is easy to puncture.

If your see a tick, use rubber gloves or a paper towel to protect your skin and remove it immediately. Drop in into a small cup of alcohol to kill it, then flush it down the toilet. If you think the tick has been attached for a day or more and you want to know if it might be carrying a disease, wrap it in a moist paper towel, put it in a small jar, and call your vet to see if s/he thinks you should have the tick tested.

Grasp the tick as close as possible to where its head is attached to your dog. Pull straight up, not to the side. The tick may come all the way out, or it may leave its mouth parts behind. Don't worry if it does. Pull out whatever you can, then swab the area with disinfectant and dab on some antiobiotic cream. Your dog's body will eventually push out the foreign parts, but keep an eye on the area. If it starts to look infected - red, swollen, filled with pus - give your veterinarian a call.

What to Do About Bully Breeds of Dogs?

One of the dilemmas of owning a dog daycare business is whether or not to accept dogs commonly categorized as bully breeds. These are breeds who are prone to dominant, sometimes aggressive behavior because of the jobs they've been bred to fill. The best known are the Pit Bull (American Pit Bull Terrier,) the American Staffordshire Terrier and the Bull Terrier. People often call all three breeds Pit Bulls, or Pitties. But there are numerous others: Boxers, Bulldogs of all kinds, Bull Mastiffs, and even Boston Terriers and Pugs. To these I would add three breeds that were developed largely as guard dogs: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and German Shepherds.

The question arises as to whether to accept these breeds because all of them make gentle, loyal, affectionate pets, especially when owners pay attention to training and socialization. Thus, they do show up, requesting daycare on a regular basis, and business owners have to make decisions about whether to include them in play groups.

There are several approaches to bully breeds in the dog daycare business. Some businesses just don't take any of them. Others take some breeds and not others (Pit Bulls are the most commonly black listed). Still others evaluate bully breed applicants and make decisions based on the individual dog. Finally some dog daycares will take bully breeds on a trial basis to see how they behave in active groups of playpals. Business owners arrive at their policies through their knowledge about and experience with the various breeds, and there's no commonly accepted practice.

The most difficult part of not accepting bully breeds, or rejecting them after an evaluation, a trial day, or even an extended period of daycare is that owners are often flabbergasted at their dog's report card. I often hear, "He wouldn't hurt a fly;" and "He's a marshmellow at home!" Owners have trouble believing our descriptions of their dog's behavior and, if they do believe us, feel terribly confused. "I trust him with my toddler," one woman told me. Some challenge us: "Well, what happened to make him do that?"

Owners' objections and confusion are completely understandable, because bully breeds are wonderful pets and even play well in small groups. Many are used as therapy dogs, or seeing eye dogs because they will walk away from aggression or provocation from another dog rather than fight. One on one, I've seen Pits and Boxers simply ignore aggression from others, just as I've witnessed Bull Dogs allowing children to maul them mercilessly. Bully breeds even play peacefully off leash in dog parks.

So what's the problem in daycare? The answer is that unlike all other situations, daycare causes dogs to revert to instinctual behaviors, and those behaviors can and do override training and socialization. That's because the play groups are really packs, which cause dogs to revert to their most basic instincts. If you breed a dog to fight or to guard or to defend, he or she will eventually do those things in a pack. Particularly in indoor facilities, where dogs spend the day enclosed in groups of ten or more, a unique situation in a pet's life. Behaviors that pet owners never see at home quickly emerge.

In daycare, hunters can attack older, weaker dogs, which is why dogs must be separated into groups based on size, temperament and play style. Fighters will chomp and hold, making it difficult to pry open their jaws if they've grabbed another dog. Herders will bark, use their bodies to reposition other dogs, and nip at heels. Terriers will grab and shake, as if to kill the rodents they were bred to control. Any breed can in fact revert to the pack behavior of copying the alpha, which means that if an attendant yells at a dog, other dogs may go after the one being reprimanded.

The way reversion to pack behavior is countered in good daycares is that the whole play group knows that humans are alphas, no exceptions allowed. Human commands must be obeyed or a dog loses his or her play privileges momentarily. Humans also model behavior, so gentle handling, safe play, affection, and good will can become the norm if attendants consistently display such propensities. But the main rule of dog daycare is that human attendants need to be trained to know the early signs of aggression and to stop it before it can escalate. They must also know how to behave as loving, protective, dominant alphas. In such a situation, dogs of most breeds will play peacefully and safely, and can be handed over exhausted to grateful owners in the evening.

My own experience has led me to change my policies over time. At first I evaluated all comers and took those who passed. One always wishes to be democratic and see people's pets as individuals. One wants to believe there are no bad breeds. However, I began to notice that some dogs who do well during the evaluation change for the worse in daycare, and these are largely bully breeds and guard dogs. Reluctant to eject a dog before trying to correct the problem, I sometimes continued with dogs that eventually attacked or bit others. I've also had to accept that every Pit Bull of every variety that I've ever admitted, started out fine after a great evaluation and became dangerous to his or her playpals within a couple of months. So now I don't take Pits at all. I find the hardest thing a business owner has to do is to tell a customer that after weeks, his or her dog has flunked out of daycare. Some never forgive you.

With other breeds, my experience is mixed, so I continue to evaluate them on a one-off basis. I had a Rottweiler who began snarling at others within a week, while I hosted a female Rottie for years who was one of the sweetest, most accepting dogs I've ever met. About a third of the German Shepherds I've admitted have been ok; the rest get aggressive over time. Boxers vary greatly for one to the other, so I still evaluate them. I've had generally bad luck with Dobermans, so, as with Pit Bulls, I don't take them at all. On the other hand I've never had to refuse or eject a Boston Terrier, a Rat Terrier or a Pug. All of those tend to rough play, but are fine if well supervised.

If you own a large bully breed or guard dog breed and want doggy daycare, my advice is to look for one where the dogs play in large, open spaces, preferably outside. The space allows the more submissive dogs to run away, which can dissipate an attacker's aggression. It also reduces aggression just because there's more territory. Most important of all, you should ask what the attendants know about your breed, and what's been that business's experience with it? It's always best to ask lots of questions when chosing a dog daycare for your pet, and especially so if you own a bully breed.

How To Quickly Stop Dog Barking

Dog barking is a very common behavior problem that causes serious grief for pet owners. It irritates the neighbors, scares away the postman, leads to neighborhood unrest, and occasionally lawsuits. In this article you will learn why dogs bark and the causes of inappropriate barking. You will find why the debarking surgery is never advised and is considered unethical. I will advise you on what not to do, then you will find the most important solutions to quickly stopping your dog's barking at home.

Barking is a completely normal behavior; great for dog communication, guarding and protecting, but a big problem when it happens too much. Finding the cause of the excessive barking is key, as we can focus on this as well to help eliminate the problem barking. Some of the common dog barking reasons: play, giving a warning, from anxiety or fear, in response to the door bell, to keep visitors of your property, or in some cases just boredom. Some dogs will bark in confined spaces (ie a kennel), being outside in response to other dogs, or just in response to environmental noise (ie cars, people talking etc.).

Debarking, or ventriculocordectomy is a veterinary procedure in which the dog's vocal chords are surgically removed. The procedure is outlawed as a form of mutilation in the United Kingdom and all countries that have signed the European Convention for the Protection of Pet Animals. The surgery carries risks, such as anesthesia, excessive bleeding, secondary infections and proliferation of scar tissue obstructing the airway. Barking is how dogs communicate, and this procedure deprives them of this basic means of expression. I fully agree with the European ban on debarking surgery, and advise that you never consider this unethical procedure as an option for your dog.

So what should you not do that most people do?

First quit yelling at your dog to 'Stop Barking' or 'Be Quiet'; in fact this may actually lead to more barking. Your dog is getting attention when he barks, and some dogs find that this attention is better than non at all. Shock collars are painful, and can actually make your dog more aggressive toward the person or other dog that they may be barking at. Do not give your dog positive attention immediately after barking, such as saying 'good dog' when he finally comes after calling him for 10 times.

What works then to stop your dog from barking?

The most important way to start is to go back to dog training basics and teach your dog to come when called. Start when you can almost guarantee that your dog will come, not when they are barking. Begin anywhere with no other distractions, and use tasty treats as a positive reward. Always ensure that positive reward is given every time your dog comes when called, never anything negative. If your dog runs out after a neighbor barking, and will not come, go get him as opposed to calling to come at first. You want to set it up that every time you call, he comes, and then gets rewarded with positive attention, petting, and a treat.

The next step in using training to stop barking is to call your dog to come when they are barking. When he comes, give him positive attention and a treat; you want to pet him which will lower his anxiety, decreasing adrenalin which is part of the cause of the barking. Keep the pattern of call, come, praise give a treat, and pet him consistently every time there is barking you want to stop.

Keep your dog away from the places where he barks- in other words set him up for success. If your dog constantly barks when you leave him outside, then avoid these triggers by keeping him inside, especially while you are retraining. If the barking is in response to your doorbell, then remove the doorbell. Make it a priority to never let your dog bark constantly while being outside, and if the come when called command isn't working, immediately bring your dog inside.

Adequate exercise is one of the big keys to resolving many canine behavioral problems; this gives your dog a purpose, and allows them to better regulate their own emotions. Incorporate the come when called training command while walking, and make it a priority to exercise your dog for at least 30 minutes twice a day. Have them retrieve or run as this elevated heart rate helps produce the calming, sedating hormones that can lead to less barking.

Bark spray collars, such as the citronella spray collar, can be helpful if your dog resists training, and is outside unsupervised for short periods of time (and still barks). The collar emits a spray of non toxic citronella in response to the noise of the barking, and causes most dogs to immediately stop. Some of the problem dogs at the animal shelter adjacent to my veterinary practice responded well to the citronella collar; it stopped their barking at the grumpy neighbor, and did not make them in any way aggressive ( except of course to that grumpy neighbor).

A type of therapeutic touch, called Tellington Touch may help your barking dog. The most effective area is the ear. Gently hold the ear flap between your thumb and forefinger. Gently stroke from the base of the ear to the ear tip; repeat the motion several times covering different sections of the ear. Use the same fingers to draw tiny circles at the base of the ear. Try both of the techniques on your dog when he is calm. If he reacts well, then try it the next time he is barking.

There are a number of over the counter anti-anxiety supplements. The most popular one is one called Calm Pet, which contains Melatonin, Kava Kava, St John's Wort, Valerian and Chamomile. Use as directed on the label. Bach Rescue Remedy is a very safe alternative medication that may calm your anxious pet. Place 4 drops on your pet's gums prior to leaving.

Dog barking really can be controlled, especially when you understand why your dog is barking. The causes are varied, but ultimately you must accept that it is a normal dog way of communicating; your dog just needs to bark when it's appropriate. Debarking or ventriculocordectomy is a dated unethical veterinary surgery that can cause harm and should never be considered as an option. Go back to basic training, starting with teaching your dog to come when called. Consider the use of a citronella spray collar if your dog is outside unsupervised, then look at trying some of the holistic anti-bark options in conjunction with training.